Replacing rear brakes typically means swapping worn pads on disc brakes or shoes on drum brakes, then reassembling the components and bedding in the new linings. Depending on your car, you may also need to replace or resurfaced rotors (for discs) or adjust the rear drum brakes, and you’ll want to consult your manual for model-specific torque specs and procedures.
Safety and planning
Brake work is safety‑critical. Before you start, ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface, engage the parking brake, and place wheel chocks. Have a stable jack and jack stands, a lug wrench, and the right tools ready. If your car has an electronic parking brake or a unique caliper design, check the owner’s manual or repair guide for any special steps.
Tools, parts, and prep
Gather the common tools and parts you’ll likely need for rear brake replacement. Depending on your vehicle, you may only need pads, or you may need new rotors or drums and wheel cylinders. Having the right tools makes the job safer and faster.
- Lug wrench
- Floor jack and jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set and ratchet, plus appropriate sizes for caliper bolts and axle lug nuts
- C-clamp or brake piston compression tool
- Brake cleaner
- Brake pads (disc) and/or shoes (drum)
- Rotors or drums if replacement is needed
- Brake grease or anti-seize for contact points
- Torque wrench
- Brake fluid and a bleed kit if fluid is opened or lines are disconnected
- Shop rags and a container for old parts
Note: Not all items may be required for every vehicle; always consult your repair manual for exact parts and torque specifications.
Rear brake systems: disc and drum types
Rear disc brakes
The steps below cover common rear disc brake pad replacement. Some vehicles use a separate rotor that may need resurfacing or replacement, and some rear calipers include a parking brake mechanism that requires special handling.
- Secure the vehicle: engage the parking brake, chock the front wheels, lift the car, and support it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel.
- Remove the caliper: unbolt the caliper mounting bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger or bungee cord.
- Remove old pads: slide or withdraw the old pads from the caliper bracket and inspect the rotor surface for wear, scoring, or glazing.
- Inspect or replace the rotor: measure rotor thickness and check for warping or deep grooves. If below minimum spec or heavily scored, replace or have it resurfaced.
- Compress the caliper piston: use a C-clamp or a dedicated brake tool to retract the piston so the new pads will fit.
- Install new pads: apply a thin layer of brake grease to contact areas on the pad backing plates and seat the new pads into the caliper bracket.
- Reassemble the caliper: slide the caliper back over the pads and fasten the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
- Reinstall the rotor (if replaced): mount the rotor and secure any retaining screws; torque to spec.
- Reinstall the wheel: mount the wheel, snug the lug nuts, lower the car, and then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s specification.
- Brake system check: ensure there are no leaks and pump the brake pedal to seat the new pads before moving the vehicle.
- Bed-in the new pads: perform several moderate stops from about 30–40 mph with light to moderate braking to transfer a proper layer of pad material to the rotor.
Note: Some vehicles require rotor replacement or resurfacing when replacing pads. If you notice unusual noise, vibration, or pedal feel changes, consult a professional. Always follow the vehicle’s manual for torque specs and model-specific steps.
Rear drum brakes
Rear drum brakes use shoes that press against the drum. This approach often involves removing the drum, replacing shoes and hardware, and then adjusting and bedding the shoes. Some systems also require parking brake re-adjustment after service.
- Lift the vehicle, remove the wheel, and carefully remove the drum. Some drums may be stuck and require light tapping to release.
- Inspect the interior: check the drum surface, shoes, springs, and the wheel cylinder for leaks or wear.
- Replace shoes and hardware: remove old shoes and hardware, install new shoes, and fit a new hardware kit if needed. If the wheel cylinder shows leaks, replace it as well.
- Adjust the shoes: use the star wheel or an adjuster to set the correct clearance so the drum sits with a light drag when installed.
- Reinstall the drum: place the drum back over the shoes and rotate to seat properly. Reattach the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle and tighten lug nuts to spec in a star pattern. Check operation of the parking brake if applicable.
- Road test and final check: test braking at low speed in a safe area to confirm proper engagement and feel. If the brake pedal feels spongey or the drum drags, recheck adjustments or seek professional help.
Note: Drum brakes often require careful adjustment for optimal performance. If you hear grinding, observe glazing, or experience irregular braking, seek professional service. Refer to the vehicle’s manual for any model-specific steps or parking brake considerations.
Final checks and road-test basics
After completing rear brake work, inspect for leaks, ensure all fasteners are torqued to spec, and perform a cautious road test in a safe area. Pump the brake pedal to set the pads or shoes, then test at low speeds to confirm proper function. If you replaced a rotor, drum, or opened the hydraulic line, bleeding may be necessary to remove air from the system.
Summary
Replacing rear brakes involves identifying whether your car uses disc or drum rear brakes, preparing safely, gathering the right tools and parts, performing the appropriate pad or shoe replacement (with rotor or drum service as needed), and then reassembling and bedding in the new linings. Always follow your vehicle’s manual for model-specific instructions, torque specs, and any parking‑brake nuances. If you’re unsure about any step, it’s prudent to consult a professional mechanic.